DIY ULTRA THE KERRY (OR TREASURE) WAY

Day one was cool, overcast, and a little wet, but the amazing scenery through Black Valley and Briadia Valley more than compensated. I was slightly disappointed that the clouds prevented a good look at Carrantuohill, the highest peak of the Macgillycuddy’s Reeks.

It was where John ‘Tough as Leather’ Lenihan became an Irish mountain running legend. Lenihan was 19 times a winner of the Carrantuohill Mountain Race, won the 1991 World Mountain Running Champion in Zermatt, Switzerland and many other road and cross country titles. Kerry born and bred, he was a seriously tough and talented runner. I plan to return one day so I can run high into these rugged and impressive peaks. The Cookie Monster Café appeared out of the mountain mist a bit over 30kms into the run, like some sort of ultra runners dream. It’s hard to choose just one thing from the menu, and they make their own ice cream, OMG! Do not over eat, it’s a decent climb up Lack Road, then through some rough fields and up and over Windy Pass before you catch a glimpse of the day’s finish line, Glenbeigh.

The B&B owner was slightly concerned about our late arrival and sent us straight down to the pub where we got our orders in just before the kitchen closed.

55kms completed with 1500m of elevation in about 10 and a half hours.

Glorious dry and sunny weather greeted us for day two. The trail skirts the coastal cliffs with views to the Dingle Peninsula to the north (where Shirley and I used to live). We knew when we finally arrived in Waterville we would have to cut the day short, though, unable to make the final 12kms to Caherdaniel in time to book into our accommodation and get dinner, so we found a local cabbie and got a lift; when you make up your own ultra you’re allowed to do this. Sadly, it was a very special section of trail that we missed, but it’s another excuse to visit again soon and complete the missing link.

45kms in 10 hours for day two, much slower than I had anticipated but a comfortable bed, another amazing meal and pint helped me feel better about the day’s achievement.

Another mostly sunny day arrived for day three, 45kms journey to Kenmare. We chose not to detour to Staigue Fort as we’d visited it many times before, however it’s a must see if you ever visit Kerry. It’s one of the finest Iron Age, dry stone ring forts you’re ever likely to see, if you’re into that kind of thing (I am).

We covered some very runnable flat trail and farm roads for the first 16kms to Sneem, a town obviously named by Dr Suess. After two days of dealing with more cows and sheep than people, the town, with its tourist shops, pubs and cafés bulging with bloated tourists was colourful and surprising. At least we were able to secure a decent coffee before once again embracing the peace and quiet of the trail. Up until now, Shirley had been keeping a good pace. When we first planned the trip, I agreed not to tell her to hurry up, and mostly I’d stuck to my word. We had covered 100kms over the first two days and I was expecting her to slow, but early on day three Shirley was still powering along.

I thought we might even be able to get to Kenmare for an early feed. Later in the day however, she developed a lower leg problem and our progress began to slow. Ankle and shin pain meant stepping down was extremely painful. Reduced to a slow walk, plus seven bonus kilometres, we eventually arrived in Kenmare just in time for last dinner orders.

For the last day, we were joined by an old friend and local runner Margaret, just 20kms from Kenmare back to Killarney. Shirley’s ankle was extremely sore and starting to bruise, but her determination to complete the circuit was strong, even if it meant walking, she wanted to finish on her feet.

We enjoyed having some new company and amazingly the weather held out again. Shirley and Margaret had not seen each other for years, meaning it was unlikely I was going to get a word in, so I diverted for a quick out and back climb up Torc Mountain, which has stunning views of Killarney National Park and the Macgillycuddy’s.

I caught up with the girls for the last few kilometres and we stopped by the lake in time for a pub lunch. Three and a half days fast packing, over 170kms and roughly 4,800m of ascent and decent. No finishing arch, no cheering crowd, just a couple of deer grazing the lake shore.

Trail and ultra running has become an important part of our lives. Each journey is an intense examination of the bigger picture, shrinking the whole confusing mess into smaller, more manageable pieces. I struggle with the selfishness of it at times, but awareness of that is what stops it consuming me, and the benefits far outweigh any negatives.

Shirley and I shared a lifetime over that 100 miles – encouraging, supporting, laughing and crying. Over the peaks and through the valleys, the journey continues, and we can’t wait to see what’s around the next bend.

Pictured: Ben and Shirley Treasure on their Irish adventures. Photographs – Ben and Shirley Treasure.